A Vegetarian in Bangkok

Thailand, renowned the world over for its exotic sweet and spicy cuisine, can seem like somewhat of a nightmare for foreigners who have some serious dietary restrictions. As an expat who also doesn't speak the language, you can end up feeling very lost, and honestly, just hungry. Within a few days of moving here, I swore off eating local cuisine after many frustrated attempts. Why is Thai food here not like Thai food outside of Thailand? Is this a global conspiracy? What about Pad Thai and Drunken Noodles? Why does everything have seafood or meat in it?

I decided to try what had worked for me so well in the Unites States – immigrant food. Chinese and Mexican food, with its use of wholesome ingredients, vegetables, rice, and spices, was a wonderful cheap alternate to eating expensive unsatisfying sides at American restaurants.

Maybe Thailand does not have the same kind of immigrant food per se. But as local Thai food spreads across the city and is available everywhere, without burning a hole in your pocket, the same socio-economic dynamics do not apply to the food scene here. So what emerges as a result, is expensive immigrant food – the Italian, French, Spanish places, with also very limited options for the meatless. Or the sub-standard Mexican place which adds THB 100 to every order if you include avocados.

But what has taken me months to figure out, is that with or without those old tricks I was used to, navigating the food scene here is a challenge. One that I've accepted quite willingly (perhaps there is no alternative, so I voyage onwards!) Vegetarians needn’t either starve and save money, or eat and go broke. But we do need to be resourceful and pick up tricks that serve us well, as we navigate the world of being a vegetarian in Bangkok.

Here I am, sharing my limited wisdom with those who are in the same boat. 

1.           Pick up some basic Thai vocabulary on your dietary restrictions. Not just what the word is, but the exact intonation which will ensure your food server knows what you mean. The first time I butchered the Thai word for vegetarian, I got sheepish confused looks. But when I really hit the note with jay (not a J sound per se, something between a “ch” and a “J”), I thought I received royal treatment. The somtum lady (who has now become my go to for this delicious local salad made of raw papaya, peanuts, and chilies), threw out the utensils even. She took out fresh new bowls, and cutlery to prepare a somtum free of anything seafood.

Here, it is helpful to refer to your standard Lonely Planet Pocket Guide to Thai, or even a quick Google Translate search (the app has gotten infinitely better).

2.          Read between menu lines. Now that you know the words, you can throw them out at restaurants and ask for recommendations. Most local Thai restaurants will offer vegetarians an excellent Morning Glory preparation (with tons of garlic!) and a vegetarian fried rice (without egg, if you prefer). Some more upmarket Thai restaurants will even do the regular coconut milk curries with vegetables, or the Tom Yum with mushrooms (instead of seafood) if you ask. So here’s what you do once you know the vocabulary, you use it!

3.          Go off the beaten path. As vegetarians, being too adventurous with food is usually met with disappointment. But there are some food options which don’t disappoint. For example, Thai Muslim food, where the Massaman Curry comes from, is also where generous use of rice, spices, and vegetables occurs. Thai Muslim cuisine also uses the Roti, similar to South Asian bread, but made mostly with white flour and served with sweet toppings – banana, chocolate sauce, etc.

4.        Enjoy what you actually can have with ease. There is no place in the world with fresher, sweeter fruits than Thailand. Succulent red pear apples, sweet juicy Papaya, yellow as the sun Pineapples, all-year-round Mango, soft Mangosteen.. I could go on and on. Fresh fruits are your best friend – for your taste buds, wallets, and health. Embrace it. Enjoy it with some fresh coconut water. You will not be sorry.

5.          Cook! Visit a Villa or Tops supermarket to know what I mean. Ingredients in Thailand are for the "gold standard" for chefs – variety and price range. Try your hand at putting together your own soup with pre-arranged Tom Yum ingredients packs (priced at THB 30-40), or the mushrooms in atleast 10 varieties for a mushroom broth. The pumpkin and sweet potato family is prevalent here - butternut squash, taros, the hairy sweet potato (also called shakarkandi in India). There’s plenty of great options if you want to get creative.

Finally, I know this is something you have been looking for – an actual list of places you can eat at. I plan to keep updating this as I discover and explore further. Here you go:

CHEAP (<THB300)

- Lay Lao, Esaan style Thai food, with ample vegetarian options such as Mushroom Tom Yum, fried rice, and the best somtum I have ever had.

- Street food (available everywhere) – coconut pancakes, fruits, steamed corn, roasted bananas, mango sticky rice etc. Soi Ari (Phahon Yothin 7, more specifically, has an excellent array of this. Closed on Mondays)

- Paper Butter, in Ari for actually having a burger patty that is NOT a portebello mushroom.

MID-RANGE (<THB1000)

- Govinda, all vegetarian Italian fare, with homemade pasta.

- Brocolli Revolution – all vegan fare

- Food court at EmQuartier (Basement), Phrom Pong

-  Indian fare of course – Saras, Dosa King, Ganesh (Nana)

-  Salt in Ari, for thin crust wood fired oven pizzas and a very solid Ratatouiile

- MASU Sushi – with Americanized rolls – Dragon Veggie Maki or the Avocado Tempura Roll

- Pla Dib, Ari – Asian Fusion. Think Wasabi Mashed Potatoes, Mushroom Fettucini, Longan cocktails..

- Beirut – excellent Moujadara (lentils) but barely acceptable Felafel

- Taco Chela by Mikkeller, Ari – quesadillas, guacamole, and a good veggie taco

- Din Tai Fung - veggie dumsum, and cold Dan Dan noodles

- Suppaniga Eating Room – this one is a hipster version of your average thai but with very wholesome vegetarian options.. try the one on Maharat Road for nice sunset views of Wat Arun (also recommended by the Michelin Guide 2018)

- Seven Spoons

- Simple: Natural Kitchen

EXPENSIVE (Upwards of THB 1000)

-  Charcoal for heavy, creamy north Indian curries and Tandoori

-  Uno Mas, at the top of the Centara Hotel, with good tapas and even better Sangria, topped with good Bangkok rooftop views.